Skip to main content
Log in

Long-shore distribution of morphodynamic beach states along an apparently homogeneous coast in SW Spain

  • Special Feature
  • Published:
Journal of Coastal Conservation Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

We present a morphodynamic study of an apparently homogeneous rectilinear coast in SW Spain. The study area covers 14 km of mesotidal sandy beaches, interrupted in some places by rocky-shore platforms. The method used consisted of a monthly monitoring of 12 beach profiles during two years. According to the results obtained from the study, which also include granulometric analyses andin situ determination of the beach disturbance depth, three main beach classes have been differentiated: low-reflective beaches, dissipative beaches and rocky-shore platform beaches. Their longitudinal distribution is not linked to their distance to the main source of sediments in the area (mouth of the river Guadalquivir). Instead, a very irregular long-shore variation of morphodynamic beach states appears. It is deduced that this long-shore variation is mainly linked to local contouring conditions (e.g. the presence of rocky shoals which affect wave-breaking processes), and not to the regional long-shore currents prevailing in the zone.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  • Anfuso, G. 2002.Morfología y dinámica sedimentaria del litoral gaditano entre Chipiona y Rota. Doctoral Thesis (ISBN 84-7786-730-5), University of Cádiz, ES.

    Google Scholar 

  • Anfuso, G., Gracia, F.J., Andrés, J., Sánchez, F., Del Río L. & Lopez-Aguayo, F. 2000. Depth of disturbance in mesotidal beaches during a single tidal cycle.J. Coast. Res. 16: 446–457.

    Google Scholar 

  • Anfuso, G., Benavente, J. & Gracia, F.J. 2001. Morphodynamic response of nourished beaches in SW Spain.J. Coast. Conserv. 7: 71–80.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bascom, W.N. 1951. The relationship between sand size and beach face slope.Trans. Am. Geophys. Union 32: 866–874.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Battjes, J.A. 1974. Surf similarity. In:Proceedings of the 14th International Conference on Coastal Engineering ASCE, pp. 466–480.

  • Benavente, J., Gracia, F.J. & López-Aguayo, F. 2000. Empirical model of morphodynamic beachface behaviour for low-energy mesotidal environments.Mar. Geol. 167: 375–390.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Carter, R.W.G. 1988.Coastal environments. Academic Press, London, UK.

    Google Scholar 

  • Davis, R.A., Jr. & Hayes, M.O. 1984. What is a wave-dominated coast?Mar. Geol. 60: 313–329.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Dean, R.D. 1973. Heuristic models of sand transport in the surf zone.Proceedings of the engineering dynamics in the surf zone, pp. 208–214. Proceedings of 1st Australian conference of Coastal Engineering. Sydney, AU.

  • Folk, R.L. & Ward, W.C. 1957. Brazos River Bar: A study in the significance of grain size parameters.J. Sed. Petrol. 27: 3–26.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Fredsoe, J. & Deigaard, R. 1992Mechanics of coastal sediment transport. Advanced series in Ocean Engineering, Vol. 3. World Scientific Publishers.

  • Gourlay, M.R. 1968.Beach and dune erosion tests. Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Report M935/M936, Delft, NL.

  • Guza, R.T. & Inman, D.L. 1975. Edge waves and beach cusps.J. Geophys. Res. 80: 2997–3012.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Jackson, N.L. & Nordstrom, K.F. 1993. Depth of activation of sediment by plunging breakers on a steep sand beach.Mar. Geol. 115: 143–151.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Komar, P.D. & Gaughan M.K. 1972. Airy wave theory and breaker height prediction. In:Proceedings of the 13th International Conference on Coastal Engineering ASCE, pp. 405–418.

  • Masselink, G. & Short, A.D. 1993. The effect of tide range on beach morphodynamics and morphology: a conceptual beach model.J. Coast. Res. 9: 785–800.

    Google Scholar 

  • Muñoz, J.J. & Enríquez, J. 1998. Dinámica litoral de una unidad fisiográfica completa: Sanlúcar-Rota.Rev. Obras Públ. Madrid 3375: 35–44.

    Google Scholar 

  • Muñoz, J.J. & Gutiérrez, J.M. 1999. Tipología y eficacia de los espigones de escollera construidos para la mejora de la estabilidad de las playas del litoral atlántico de la provincia de Cádiz.Bol. Geol. Minero (ITGE, Madrid) 110–1: 53–66.

    Google Scholar 

  • Nordstrom, K.F. & Jackson, N.L. 1992. Two-dimensional change on sandy beaches in meso-tidal estuaries.Z. Geomorphol. 36:465–478.

    Google Scholar 

  • Reyes, J.L., Martins, J.T., Benavente, J., Ferreira, O., Gracia, F.J., Alveirinho-Dias, J.M. & López-Aguayo, F. 1999. Gulf of Cadiz beaches: a comparative response to storm events.Bol. Inst. Esp. Oceanogr. (Madrid) 15 (1–4): 221–228.

    Google Scholar 

  • Shepard, F.P. 1950. Beach cycles in southern California.U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Beach Erosion Board Technical Memorandum 20, LaJolla, CA, US.

  • Williams, A.T. 1971. An analysis of some factors involved in the depth of disturbance of beach sand by waves.Mar. Geol. 11: 145–158.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Wright, L.D., Short, A.D. & Green, M.O. 1985. Short term changes in the morphodynamic states of beaches and surf zones: an empirical predictive model.Mar. Geol. 62: 339–364.

    Article  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Anfuso G..

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Cite this article

Anfuso, G., Martínez del Pozo, J.A., Gracia, F.J. et al. Long-shore distribution of morphodynamic beach states along an apparently homogeneous coast in SW Spain. J Coast Conserv 9, 49–56 (2003). https://doi.org/10.1652/1400-0350(2003)009[0049:LDOMBS]2.0.CO;2

Download citation

  • Received:

  • Revised:

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1652/1400-0350(2003)009[0049:LDOMBS]2.0.CO;2

Keywords

Navigation